![]() Select all of the images you'd like to stack, click on the "Process" option, which is found on the top bar, and select "focus stack." Alternatively, on the keyboard press, Ctrl-Alt+S, and this will do the same thing. Performing the actual stack in ACDSee is also incredibly easy. I simply selected the folder that contained the files and had immediate access to them. The great thing about ACDSee is that I didn't need to import the images into the software. Once both images had been taken, I was ready to take them into ACDSee. The first image focused on the camera body, and the second focused on the lens. Fortunately, the touchscreen on the back of the Sony camera was effective enough. ![]() The only problem with the remote app on Sony is that you cannot change the point of focus. Also, the Sony a7R III offers the ability to shoot remotely via the smartphone app, which I find quite useful. Using a tripod helped prevent any movement in the camera. Continuous lighting just helps me see the result before I take the shot, especially on mirrorless cameras. The reason the shutter speed was so slow was that I was using continuous lighting. The settings I chose were 1/5th of a second for the shutter speed and f/8 for the aperture. Both images were shot with the Sony a7R III and the Zeiss Batis 85mm f/1.8. For the most part, the more images you have in a stack, the better the results however, for this particular image, two were enough for the result I needed. For this reason, remote shooting is ideal, although not completely necessary.įor this first example, I only stacked two images. Any movement of the camera in-between shots may result in the whole stack being compromised. The reason why a tripod is important is that keeping the shot as stable as possible will prevent any issues when it comes time to stack all of the images. Focus control can be either manual or auto. To do this properly, it's important to have a camera with proper focus controls and to shoot on a tripod. The main reason I enjoy using this software over many alternatives is because of how easy and straightforward it is to use. The software I've been using for a number of my focus stacked images is ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2020. Any smaller than that and you may start to lose some of the benefits of focus stacking. Ideally, you'll want to shoot at around f/5.6 or f/8 to make the most of this technique. This then results in an image with far greater depth, much sharper focus throughout the image, and potentially without any diffraction. Essentially, what you do is take multiple images at various focus points in the frame and then stack all of the images together into one final image. To many of you experienced photographers, this probably won't come as a surprise, but I believe the best solution is to use a technique called focus stacking. Chances are it's probably a combination of all three, but ultimately, it's just not incredibly convenient to shoot at really small apertures. ![]() ![]() Stopping the lens down all the to f/22 or even smaller means that you either need a great deal more light, a much slower shutter speed, or you need to increase your ISO setting. The final problem with stopping the lens down to increase depth in an image is exposure. This isn't the same as something being in proper focus, which does look noticeably better. When you stop down the lens, what you're actually doing is just increasing the amount of acceptable focus. In practical terms, this will cause your image to look rather soft, and this kind of defeats the whole point behind wanting more depth in an image.Įven if you're not shooting really close to your subject and with a wider angle lens, stopping the lens down doesn't always get the desired result. To make matters worse, at such small apertures, you will more than likely introduce issues like diffraction. In these circumstances, even at f/22, you probably won't be able to get an acceptable amount of depth in an image. This is especially the case if you're shooting close to your subject with a relatively long macro lens. Unfortunately, this doesn't tend to work extremely well. In order to get more depth of field in an image, one could say that all that is required is to simply stop the lens down. ![]() Add a longer focal length into the mix, and you can completely blur out the background. The reason for this is because on the shallow end, all you need to do is shoot with a wider aperture lens. In my view, it's harder to produce an image with more depth than it is to produce an image with shallow depth of field. ![]()
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